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How to Make Earwires
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It's easy to make your own earwires using roundnose pliers or a jig. Why would you want to make earwires? You can choose your own metal, style, and gauge. This gives you more design options than you would get ordering pre-made earwires, plus it's a great way to save money.
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Skill Level
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Suitable for beginners.
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Time Required
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About a minute per earwire.
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| Materials | Comments |
| Wire | 18-22 gauge. |
| Jig or Pliers | I prefer the WigJig Delphi jig. |
| Wire Cutters or Thread Nippers | I used my trusty flush cutters. |
| File | Cup bur preferred, but others work too. |
| Hammer/Anvil | Optional |
Before we begin, let's talk about wire. You can use a variety of wires to make your own earwires (and other earring styles), but you need to think about the wearer's potential sensitivity to the metal and comfort with the wire thickness.
- Wire Gauge or Thickness
Remember, with wire gauges, the bigger number indicates thinner wire (i.e., 18 gauge is thicker than 20 gauge). My personal preference is to use 20 or 21 gauge wire to make earwires. 18 gauge is the largest size I can fit through the holes in my ears (be aware: some older earrings are closer to 16 gauge!). 22 gauge is light and comfortable, but not as strong as the thicker wires. I think 24 gauge wire or finer wire is too thin for earwires.
- Wire Shape & Hardness
In addition to wire thickness, you may be able to select wire shape and hardness. I've only used round wire for earrings, but if you are feeling adventurous, you can try out other shapes (e.g., half-round, square). I like to use soft or half-hard wire. If you only have full-hard wire, you will want to anneal it to make it more flexible before working it for earwires. When you bend the wire, you will be work-hardening it. Even so, if I use soft wire, I usually hammer it after making the earwire to make it stronger and more stiff.
- Metal Composition
Don't forget to consider the effect of the metal on the wearer. Some people are highly sensitive to metals. Others can wear practically anything in their ears. If you use natural copper wire, expect it to form a temporary green discoloration in the wearer's holes. If you are using coated metal (e.g., Artistic or Colourcraft wire or any plated metal), be careful of damaging the coating when working the wire (you may wish to avoid hammering it). You can hammer goldfilled wire, but don't overdo it. If you are using steel wire, make sure it is surgical stainless steel (otherwise it could be toxic and irritating). Sterling silver will tarnish; fine silver and gold will not.
Making Earwires by Hand
You can make earwires using a pre-existing earwire and your pliers. This is the method to use if you don't have a jig (although a jig is easy to make). Cut 2 lengths of wire about 4 inches (10 cm) long. Hold the earwire with your pliers and bend one or both of the wires to match its curves. I like to work both earwires at once, using my hands, except for the loops (then I use roundnose pliers). After you get a shape you like, you can flatten the part that sits in the earhole by applying pressure with flatnose pliers (no ridges!) or by pounding the earring gently using a hammer and anvil. Use a file to smooth the ends of the earwires.
Making Earwires Using a Jig
 I like using a jig to make earwires because the results are consistent and because it takes minimal time (seconds) to make an earwire. This is the Wig Jig Delphi jig (they have free earring instructions on their site, too). I used three small pegs and one larger peg (choose your preference from 1/4", 5/16", 3/8") to outline the shape of the earring I wanted to make. Remember, wire is springy, so if you are using a jig to model your earwire after one that is already made, you will want to make the path for the wire closer/tighter than the finished design. Feel free to reverse the design for your comfort (I'm lefthanded) or alter the size to suit your tastes.
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 It's less wasteful to work with your wire still attached to its spool. Use your fingers to wrap one end of the wire around the first peg. Pull the wire taut and use your fingers or a plastic instrument (e.g., the back of your pliers) to push the wire flat against the jig.
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 Keep the wire under tension and pull it around the larger peg and inside the two small pegs. Use the last peg as a measuring point to cut your wire. Make the cut flush at the earwire, not on the spool side of the wire.
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 Once you've cut the wire, remove it from the jig. Cut the inside of the loop, being careful to make a clean cut with no sharp edges. You can use a file or cup bur to smooth the end of the earwire where it enters the ear. You may wish to harden and flatten the shank of the earwire. You can press firmly using flatnose pliers, hammer the earwire on an anvil, or compress it between two pieces of hard plastic or boards.
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